Alexandrite, diode or IPL: which hair removal suits you?

How does laser hair removal work?

Melanin, the pigment in hair, absorbs the light and turns it into heat. The heat travels down the hair into the follicle and damages it [1]. It only works while a hair is growing, and hairs never all grow at once, so you need a series of appointments.

So the light should end up in the hair, not the skin. The more clearly dark hair stands out against lighter skin, the more easily it absorbs the heat [1]. Melanin in the skin can absorb light too, which is why skin type and tanning matter so much [2].

What does 755 nm mean, and what doesn’t it?

755 nanometres is the wavelength of an Alexandrite laser, and the one our DEKA AGAIN COS uses [3]. It describes the kind of light, not the treatment strength: how much energy reaches the skin depends on the settings. Nor is it a promised result or a ranking: a higher or lower number is not automatically better.

Alexandrite, diode, Nd:YAG or IPL: what is the difference?

The main options for hair removal are Alexandrite, diode and Nd:YAG lasers, plus IPL [4]. A laser works at one specific wavelength; IPL uses a broad spectrum of light. A 2022 systematic review found long-term hair reduction with all four, but results varied widely between studies and body areas [5].

For darker skin, DermNet names the long-pulsed Nd:YAG as the safest laser. It describes the diode laser as mainly safe, while Alexandrite has been studied less in darker skin [2].

Which hair and skin types suit Alexandrite?

Suitability comes before the method. What counts is your hair colour, skin type and any current tan [1].

• Dark, coarse hair usually responds better than fine, downy hair.
• Blond, grey, white and red hair respond poorly or not at all.
• A fresh tan, including from sunbeds or self-tanner, is a reason to wait. It can make treatment less effective and side effects more likely.
• Darker skin needs careful assessment, and a different wavelength may suit it better [2].

We offer Alexandrite only: no diode, Nd:YAG or IPL. If Alexandrite is not the right choice for your skin or hair, we will tell you at the consultation, even if that means we do not treat you.

What is Moveo, and why the contact cooling?

Moveo HR is the handpiece on the DEKA AGAIN COS. It combines repeated passes over the area with contact cooling; the manufacturer says this heats the tissue gradually [3]. It is a way of delivering the energy, not a different wavelength. Cooling supports comfort, but you may still feel warmth or a brief pinprick.

What about IPL devices for home use?

Home-use devices are based on IPL or laser technology. Cleveland Clinic notes that without supervision by an experienced professional, the risk of misuse or injury goes up [1]. The basic questions stay the same: hair colour, skin type and tanning.

Does the device name decide the result?

No. A device name or wavelength alone says little about your result. What matters is whether your skin and hair are suitable, the right settings and who treats you. With us, that is Salta, who holds DEKA AGAIN training certification and German NiSV certification. The aim is long-term hair reduction: some hairs can grow back, and maintenance may be needed.

Which health points should you mention first?

Raise these at the consultation [1]:

• Pregnancy: treatment is generally postponed.
• Medication such as certain acne treatments, which can affect light sensitivity. Do not stop anything on your own.
• A tendency to cold sores, genital herpes or keloids (raised scars).
• Current or past skin cancer, skin conditions, infections and tattoos in the area.

We do not diagnose. Please take medical questions to your doctor.

How can you find out whether Alexandrite suits you?

The easiest way is the free trial area on your first laser visit. In 30 minutes you get a consultation and, if your skin and hair are suitable, a trial treatment of one small area such as underarms, upper lip, bikini or nape. It costs €0, is available once per person and can be booked online without payment. To just talk first, book the free laser consultation. You will find us at Bundesallee 84 in Berlin-Friedenau.